In my beginning is my end, and in my end is my beginning.3 August 2006 10.25 pm
Home now for two days and some change. This is my final diary entry and as such I feel it necessary to commemorate the occasion by typing it rather than writing in my usual cryptic longhand. Three days since I’ve been in India and I still don’t know what to think or even how to go about beginning to think about thinking.
- Something whining near my ear: a mosquito. Back at Shantivanam again – it buzzed – and I died—
So much that happened. It would be impossible to recount all of it, really. This is the eternal predicament of all writers. There is a perfection which exists all around, call it reality, call it consciousness or being; we see it in everything we do. We hear it in the sound of the rain against the window. The sun on our face. The itchtingleprick of a miniscule needle drawing blood out of us and into an insect, gone before it is felt. I hear it in Katrina’s voice – the sadness, overwhelming: the contours of Raymond’s long face, like a Greek comic mask: the pregnant question of Brother Amaldas – can you feel the Shanti? How can we capture all? How can we even begin to go about capturing even some?
The struggle it seems is futile. To try to shape words on a page or colors on a canvas in order to allow another to experience fully that which spurred the artist to create his paltry imitation – try we must but a full realization of individual experience on a mass scale can never be achieved under any circumstance but the Divine. But this is the true beauty of the struggle for creation in art: that which the artist has tried to render, beginning with the model of reality as he sees it, darkly and through the distorting glass of I and mine, leaves his poor artistry’s control the moment that the first letter has been laid on the page or the first daub of paint is smeared on a canvas, for whether he is recreating his perception or the dark glass which alters it, the fundamental truth is that every person will perceive uniquely, beautifully. This is the Divine: that that which seems as though it is separate and unique and a part of our own experience and memory exists only truly within the realm of the universal, that is, as something that, when the shroud of the individual mirage of perception is removed, exists within all things and without them, because beyond the world of perception there is only the one timeless and ubiquitous truth of knowledge and experience and makingness (there is a German word for this which I am forgetting) abiding in a plane all its own, which is the true Kingdom of Heaven. Within you without you – in the space between us.
Plato was wrong. This is what can be called the beauty of art – the imperfection and the futility, perhaps noble, of the struggle to create and endure where there cannot be any truly new or unique creation and endurance is inherent within everything at its core. A delight in disorder, Herrick called it: this does more bewitch me than art precise in every part. The truly great works are those in which the original vision of the artist imagining perfection in his vision of his completed creation shines through into his disorderly and tragically incomplete imitation of his own glimpse of the Divine in all things – and this not without some remorse for things that might have been. The irony: things that might have been but which are and cannot be seen. They are that which is.
This is my poor attempt: to jot down creaking skeletons of ineffectual words imbued with not a fraction of the passion of being that they are meant to convey. Attempted kidnapping, to whisk my readers away to a faroff land that does not exist, at least not exactly like I’ve told it, and even if it did, it certainly doesn’t any longer. Read, and make of it what you will. The truth is not in the words. It is in the thing itself. It is in you.
What have I left out? Telling it now, adding it at the end, emendations made to a childish portrait meant to be a masterpiece, trying to cover errors and fill in holes, but of course this is like reciting verse out of its original context: they are made into what we would like to make of them:
NAVEEN DIDN’T MEET US
Raymond and I wanted our money back, for the train tickets purchased anew because of Naveen’s mistake. Oops. Ninety dollars like Kaiser Sozé – fft! Raymond exchanged stern words on the phone from our hotel room in Delhi. Naveen spent the rest of our stay avoiding us: couldn’t call because he was out of station. Couldn’t arrange a meeting because he was already in one. Didn’t drive us to the airport because of business. Busy-ness.
THE BLACK TAJ MAHAL – BUILDING AND DRINK ALIKE
A legend: that Shah Jahan planned to build a second Taj, across the river from the first, in black marble, for his own tomb. To shadow the brilliance of his Most Excellent Lady. How amazing it would have been – astonishing. Tragic to picture what, once again, might have been. Is it there?
Aurangzeb had his father placed on house arrest and imprisoned in Red Fort, in a cell of white marble carved and inlaid with precious stones, where he lived out his final eight years gazing across the river at his most Excellent Crown of all Palaces. Tajii Mumtaaz Mahal. Smitten. And then after he died his son violated all beauty and perfection and placed his father’s sepulchre beside that of his most beloved wife. Slightly behind and to the left. Who can know perfection if it is so easily tainted? Is it perfection at all?
A pepsi float with vanilla ice cream, served in a frosty tumbler, tall, with a straw. An edible masterpiece to mock the legend that might have been realized: how cruel that no matter how pleasing it is to the palate, in the end the Black Taj leaves the body through the same orifice that all other solids leaving the body depart through. Unto shit thou shalt return; and from shit shall a new being be made.
LOOK ON MY WORKS, YE MORTALS, AND DESPAIR
Through an anteroom door of goldleaf calligraphy intricate and pristine, down a long echoing hallway barren and sloping the grand chamber of the tomb of Akbar, the Great Greater Greatest, superlative among his dynasty and in history. Walls rising to fifty feet above the cold granite floor polished smooth by the wear of four hundred years of millions of bare feet firmly grounded. Whistling, like Lawrence:
You can hear the girls declare,
He must be a millionaire.
The sound takes on a new life, reverberverberating, berverberver, berating, revere, berating: So humble a tomb. We are all the same in death: all things go, all things go. To the creator. I am Akbar the Ozymandian. Look on my works, ye mortals, and despair.
A GOOD WALK SPOILT
Walking in Agra to outrun the five hours remaining between the end of our sightseeing tour and departure by train. Being followed by two men pedaling, peddling bicycle rickshaws competing for our patronage. No, thank you, we don’t want it, just walking, thanks. American? No, Australian. Feigning Australianism badly, but to them all white people must look the same and sound the same at that. Walking by six men clad in soiled undershirts and dhotis, one approached me and asked to buy my necklace. Stink of rum about his dirty stubble. No, I said. Why not. My mother made it for me, and I like it, and I intend to keep it. Then how about my shirt, he asked. Name a price. A hundred dollars US, I said. Don’t want it so much anymore, eh? Angry, no, belligerent: you think only you stupid Europeans have money? You think you’re the only rich people in the world? Come and play cards and find out who’s really rich, or take off your shirt now, I will buy it from you. I am not a European, I said. Fuck you, I thought, because he was right. Money is a husk – not the jewel in the lotus within the heart. A diamond in the rough stubble rumsmelling grime, it was there somewhere, but I couldn’t see it. They see dollar signs but we see empty hands. Do I look like that which my judgment sees?
RAYMOND’S COMMENT THAT WE WILL EVENTUALLY FORM A DIFFERENT PERCEPTION OF THE OVERALL TONE OF OUR VISIT RETROACTIVELY DUE TO OUR OMISSION OF THE MORE UNPLEASANT DETAILS SIMPLY FOR LACK OF ENERGY IN THE ACT OF RETELLING
And we will tell it like we wanted it to be so much that in the end we begin really to believe that it is as we say and not as we saw.
SET A COURSE SOU’-SOU’WEST, MISTER RAYMOND IF-YOU-PLEASE
Stepping off the metro at the Karol Bagh stop and the realization that we do not know how to get back to our hotel. Raymond, with his hand on our rickshaw driver’s shoulder, began giving directions in pantomime completely by vague sensory recollection. Let the Jew be my guide. Left here, yes, left. And straight, no, no turn, straight, yes. Now right. Now right again, round the roundabout, keep going. There’s the beggars from this morning. There’s the chemist’s shop we passed last night. Here somewhere, he said. Yes, I know, I said, but this is up to you since my sense of direction has been turned completely on its head. I have been turned on my head. There! he exclaimed. The White House hotel, remember? No. Yeah, the White House. Further up this street, more, he said, longer down, yes.
A wave of relief as the unremarkable façade of the Sunstar Residency came into view. Stepping out, I paid the driver, hunched nervously at the wheel, one hundred rupees above the fare he requested. Now I patted him on the shoulder. Tough driving. Hard, I said motioning. You did a good job. Thank you, I said, and he smiled.
I should have paid Raymond.
AWKWARD IN THE ORIGINAL SENSE OF THE BIRD WITHOUT CAPACITY FOR FLIGHT
On the sleeper car pulling into Delhi, our attendant drew back the curtains to the compartment as we were finishing breakfast. Held out a tray with mints and a few bills: a tip, sir, he said. I looked at Raymond and he gave me the Look back and I reached into my pocket and took out eighty rupees in bills and deposited all onto the tray. Still he held it in front of me. Knowing the answer before I asked, I asked anyway, Good? That bloody indecipherable headbob. A smile, nervous, laughter, false with anger lacing tightly a net beneath. No, huh? Raymond, his voice low, fast, in our coded English: ay-doublyew-kay-word. Yeah, yeah I know. Another hundred fell out of my hands and he nodded, or bobbed, head floating high above my capacity to understand what he meant. O good. Acceptable at last.
Then moving the tray from me to Raymond. Anger rising, no, we won’t be panhandled, we are not whiteskinned moneybags. All you did was bring us sheets so dusty that I spent the whole night sneezing. God damn it, I said to Raymond, tell him no. That’s enough for the both of us.
No money, Raymond said. No money. It was the truth, almost – only 300 rupees between us.
ALL YOU PEOPLE LOOK THE SAME TO ME
Outside the state emporiums in Delhi, buying water. Rs. 20/litre, cold. 15 room temperature. Still sneezing from the train blanket’s residue. Our salesman: are you Chinese? Raymond and I exchange furtive smiles. Yes, he said, we are. How can you tell?
A TACTICAL INCISION
Raymond to Fr. Joe on our last meeting with him at the Kripa Foundation. In America we have a saying that if you talk the talk, you’d better be able to walk the walk. Truly, Fr. Joe, you seem to embody this: you do everything you say you do, and then you go on to do more. I’m honored to have met you, and it’s been truly refreshing to have seen all of the great things that an honest and committed person is capable of doing. Father Joe smiling with wet eyes, and Raymond glancing quickly, ever so slightly smiling, in my direction. I knew. I felt like laughing out loud – his words were true. Undeniably so, and I knew it. We all knew it, and although I could not bear to look him in the face for fear of giving myself away I felt the Priest, the talker of talks, burning with the shame of the truth about him that we had all discovered in those three weeks together. The ersatz model against the real thing.
Afterward I must admit that I felt genuinely and inexplicably sorry for him. Even his fingers, curled slightly at the first knuckle, looked sad.
EVERYONE LAUGHS AT ADAM’S SUDDEN APPREHENSION
The first time I heard Adam ask Naveen I laughed, and so did he. Do you know any enlightened masters? We all laughed, a good polite chuckle. No, I don’t think there are very many Buddhas walking around outside the hotel, Naveen said.
And then I came to see that Adam was serious, the trip wearing on as he asked more people and they gave the same goodnatured chuckle. No, we don’t know any. The konchoks. The boat driver on the Ganges. Sister Marie-Louise. Brother Amaldas. Laughing, no, no, or they didn’t understand. Perhaps both. Adam’s question began to wear on him, and to wear itself out. By the time we reached Shantivanam he had changed the phrasing to something closer in nature to a plea: where can I find an enlightened master?
Adam, reading through books by mystics, the Saad-Vidya, the Upanisads, Easwaran’s Mantram Handbook. The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind…
More painful than I think anything else on this trip, more than seeing the man whom I thought I loved and respected self-destruct or witnessing the group dynamic fracture into camps, all against one, was watching Adam lose his confidence in the beauty of the workings of the world, and of the capacity for knowledge of himself. No more faith: he lost it. Perdido. I do not know if lost faith is ever returned. He walks in light but all he sees is darkness. Let us hope.